Yogyakarta: Minimum Wage, Maximum Toil

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The sun was out that Thursday morning. My husband Rio took me for breakfast at a cafe called Not-Civet Coffee in Kaliurang, at the foot of Mount Merapi, well away from the city center. When we got there…

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Online Learning In The Javanese Countryside Isn’t As Easy As Turning On Zoom

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The school where I teach is in a small village on the outskirts of Pemalang, a city of around 1.5 million people in north-central Java. The road I take to get there, while asphalted, is only around three metres wide, pothole-riddled, and flanked left and right by rice-fields…

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The Kost of Freedom

Kost Of Freedom

Young people in Indonesia commonly think of living in a kost, or studio flat, as the essence of freedom. Vema Novitasari wonders: are they right?

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Aprilia From The Block

Aprilia From The Block

East Jakarta in late afternoon. The roads were chock-a-block with commuters. The chaos on Jakarta’s roads was the first thing that struck me when I moved there. I spent most of my time in the national capital stuck in gridlock…

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Why I Walk With My Eyes Cast Down In Jatinangor

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In my four years as a college student in Jatinangor, a small city just outside Bandung, West Java, I shied away from looking straight ahead of me when out and about. When walking, I assumed a hunched, bowed posture and I kept my eyes fixed on the ground, looking up just often enough to avoid crashing into anything. Not without cause, naturally…

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Last Angkots of Bekasi

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Though it seems perfectly normal to take pride in where we came from, the concept remains foreign to me. The thing about my city is, there’s not a lot to brag about. It’s not easy to be proud of something that’s become the butt of so many jokes…

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